FRIDAY 11/23
Friday morning came much too quickly.
It was my mom’s and my last day at Elephant
Plains Game Lodge, a little piece of heaven on earth. In the days prior we
had gone on five wonderful 3-hour game drives and our sixth and final game
drive would begin at 5:30 am. So far we had been able to see four of The Big
Five (water buffalo, leopard, elephant, lion) and we were just missing the
rhinoceros. We had already spent hours looking for a very elusive white
rhinoceros who constantly wandered in and out of the territory we were permitted
to explore. My mom and I had high hopes that today would be the day we’d come
face to face with the creature who seemed more like an airy ghost than a palpable
megafauna.
GAME DRIVE 6
Shortly before 5:30 am my mom and I met up with our group
in front of Willie’s Land Cruiser. Willie told us he and Connie had already
been out tracking the rhino and we would head to his last known whereabouts
first. Everyone kept their eyes peeled for any sign of the rhino. Willie and
Connie pored over tracks from their respective vantage points and they even got
out of the car to look for the rhino. Willie told us that rhinos are extremely
endangered because they are poached for their horns. (The horns are typically
shipped to Asia, ground to powder and used for medicinal purposes.) The
estimated number of rhinos in South Africa is kept secret by researchers. Willie
told us that poachers are willing to look for rhinos anywhere – even in private
game reserves like Elephant Plains. No wonder this particular rhinoceros was so
shy!
As we drove a long we spotted several termite mounds that
looked a lot like a rhino. At one point I found myself staring at a warthog and
for a moment I was convinced it was the rhino! The warthog held still for a
moment and then ran off. Minutes later we slowed down and peered into a lot with
relatively sparse vegetation where Connie had tracked the rhino. There, amongst
the bushes and brush, stood the solitary rhinoceros. It was rather fitting to
find him out in the open after searching for him for so long. Willie circled the
vehicle around to get us closer. When the rhino came into view the second time
Willie told us he would probably run away a short distance and then stop. Just
as Willie predicted the rhino started to trot up the hillside before looking
back at us and deciding to stop.
My mom remarked that she never thought something so big
could look so scared. After a short time the rhino relaxed a little and
continued to walk along the road.
I can’t tell you how happy I was to be looking at a wild
rhinoceros. Willie gave us an idea of how big his territory is and it was
astonishing. Even though these animals live in daily peril I have a feeling
they are much happier than animals in zoos. After seeing so many animals do
their own thing in their own sprawling territory I felt like I never wanted to
go to a zoo again. Then again what would the world be without zoos? When I was
a kid I fell in love with giraffes at a zoo while I was visiting my
great-grandparents in Colorado. After we left our rhino friend behind we came
across a group of giraffes snacking on some thorny trees and I fell in love all
over again.
Next up we were lucky enough to run into our four
favorite female lions. We parked even closer to them than we had the day
before. Willie told us that a lot of people go to lion sanctuaries where they
are allowed to play with baby lions. He said that he would never want to touch
a lion because they are quite stinky. We weren’t close enough to smell the
lions but he said you never forget the smell. Lions are opportunistic hunters
and if they have the chance they will kill more prey than they can eat in a
single day. They will save the other carcass(es) and gradually feed on the meat
even if it is four days old and rotten. Gross, right?
|
"Hey Willie, come smell my breath!" |
Even though I loved looking at the lions we eventually
had to move on. Willie listened to the rangers talking on his radio and heard
that they had spotted his very favorite leopard, Moya. We drove over to her and
watched her as she caught sight of some nearby impalas. Her body language told
the whole story – she wanted to eat, she was excited to find a potential meal,
she tried her best to stay hidden, and she had a hard time finding the perfect
opportunity to strike.
The wind was not blowing in her favor and it carried her
scent right over to the impalas. In response they set off their security system
and started snorting warnings at each other. (It would have been disastrous for
them if they had split up and run away in different directions the second they
realized she was nearby. Someone definitely would have gotten iced.) They held
their ground and showed me that maintaining a healthy level paranoia is better
than succumbing to all-out panic.
Moya made a half-hearted run in their direction but she
wasn’t able to bring any impalas down. She went back to scent-marking every
plant in sight. I noticed she had the most striking blue-green eyes of any of
the leopards we had seen. Maybe that is why she’s Willie’s favorite leopard.
The morning game drive was going great but time was also
running out. I tried not to pay any attention to the clock on the dashboard. I
knew time was winding down when Willie pulled off near a lagoon for our morning
coffee break. He knew there were hippos in the water and he told us we could
get out as long as we wouldn’t go past a certain log that lay parallel to the
shoreline. That log happened to be the perfect perch for a lovely bird Willie
called “a flying banana” – the yellow billed hornbill.
After our coffee break we got back into the Land Cruiser
and slowly but surely made our way back to the lodge. The inevitable moment
came when I had to leave the vehicle for good. Willie knew that this was the
end of the road for me, my mom and a few others. He gave my mom a hug and he
gave me one too. My first thought was, “Okay, I need to run to the bathroom and
cry for a minute or two.” I walked over to the bathroom but there was already a
line. There’s no crying in safari parks!
I walked back to the room and finished packing my things.
My mom and I ate breakfast and then she went to the front desk to review our
final bill. When I got to the office my mom said, “Look what they gave us.” She
handed me a laminated certificate with my name on it. It was even signed by Willie.
My immediate thought was, “I’m totally going to frame this.” I have yet to do
so but here it is in all its glory:
|
"This is to certify that Amber spotted the BIG 5 while on safari at Elephant Plains Game Lodge, South Africa" : ) |
After leaving an entry in the guest book we very sadly
rolled our suitcases to our rental car. My mom was a little nervous about
getting lost on the way out or hitting rough patches in the road. When we got
back to Gowrie Gate we found a shuttle driver who agreed to let us follow him.
My mom followed his path around each pothole and over each shady-looking dip. It
saved us a lot of time because we could see what his vehicle could handle and
we knew how fast we could go as a result. Once we got to the main road we
parted ways. My mom and I had to drive to the Avis office in Hazyview in order
to get our flat tire repaired. (The spare one was already on the vehicle so we
really needed to get the original tire put back on in case anything happened.)
It took us two or three hours to get to Hazyview. We
talked to an Avis employee and he sent the tire out to be fixed. (It had been
punctured by a screw.) It took about an hour but we used the time to eat lunch
at one of the tourist-friendly restaurants. (There were only tourist-friendly
restaurants, for the record. The town is located near a Kruger National Park
entrance and it’s definitely a tourist hot spot.) After our tire was securely
reinstalled we set out for the tiny town of Graskop.
On our way to Graskop my mom was pulled over for speeding. Actually, she was waved off the road by a female traffic cop who was standing on the side of the road with a radar gun. The whole situation was kind of fishy. First the cop said that she clocked us at one speed, then she said she clocked us at another. When my mom insisted she wasn't speeding at all the cop just kind of shrugged her shoulder and said, "Let me see your license." I was starting to think that the cop's "radar gun" was phony or maybe it had dead batteries. The great thing was the cop must have had no way to process my mom's license because as soon as she realized we were foreigners she let us leave. Lucky us!
This final chapter of our trip involved seeing part of the Panorama Route, spending
Friday night in Graskop, seeing more of the Panorama Route, and then driving to
the Johannesburg Airport on Saturday.
The Panorama Route is a long scenic route with several
viewpoints and interesting natural landmarks. Each viewpoint has a small
entrance fee. The gates to each viewpoint close at 5 pm. Unfortunately we only
had time for one viewpoint before closing time. Even though time was limited we
were very happy to have “The Three Rondavels” practically to ourselves. Better
still, the skies were clear enough for us to see a wonderful expanse of the Blyde River Canyon. If
it had been cloudy we would have been a little sad.
At 5 pm we set out to find the B&B where we’d be
staying the night. We had a little trouble reading the map and we ended up
calling the owner in order to find it. (We were glad my mom’s iPhone was
unlocked which allowed her to buy a micro SIM card and get a local South Africa
phone number.) When we saw the brown and white landmark sign for “Zur Alten
Mine Guest Farm” we were relieved and delighted.
Zur Alten Mine Guest Farm was ridiculously idyllic. I
mean, seriously pastoral. It was an entirely different scale of beauty compared
to Elephant Plains Game Reserve. The craziest thing about it is that we had our
very own Log
Chalet for about $40 dollars per night. Can you believe that? I can’t tell
you how badly I want to go back there.
Before I jump too far ahead, though, I should tell you
that we drove to reception and met the owners. They were an extremely pleasant German
couple with a small troop of dogs and cats.
After we checked in we drove up to the log cabin where
one of the owners showed us around. He also gave us a list of restaurants where
we could eat dinner. We chose The Glass House in Graskop. The restaurant owner
sold me on ordering their catch of the day which was a river trout I wouldn’t
be able to find in any other part of the world. The only unfortunate thing it
is was served with its head, tail and fins intact. I always have a hard time
ignoring shriveled eyeballs when I’m eating. Oh well, it was still great!
In truth, the most difficult thing to keep off my mind
was the fact that there were 20-odd lucky you-know-whats who were still at
Elephant Plains enjoying an evening game drive. For several days after leaving
Elephant Plains I would look at the clock and become wistful if I knew guests
were on a game drive at that time. I can’t tell you how many times I dreamed that
I was back on one of those vehicles looking at those awesome animals. I miss
them so badly.
When my mom and I went to sleep on Friday night my
suitcase was all packed for the long journey home. I hoped that my mom and I
would still have plenty of fun before we had to check in at the Johannesburg
Airport at 6 pm.
TO BE CONTINUED!